# Frequently asked questions
## Becoming Certified
Who can apply for GOTS/GRTS certification? Textile processing, manufacturing and trading entities can apply for certification according to the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and/or Global Responsible Textile Standard (GRTS).
Farming projects that want to produce organic fibre cannot apply for GOTS certification, but for certification according to organic farming standards (i.e the USDA NOP or the EEC 834/2007).
How to apply for GOTS/GRTS certification? The initial request and application for GOTS/GRTS certification must be addressed to an [Approved Certification Body](https://global-standards.org/index.php?Itemid=1462). [](https://global-standards.org/index.php?Itemid=2417)Approved certifiers are assigned with implementing the quality assurance system and will be able to answer individual questions related to the inspection and certification procedure.
Contact information for all GOTS & GRTS approved certifiers, their local representatives, a list of countries where they currently have certified clients in, as well as their accredited scopes, are listed [here.](https://global-standards.org/index.php?Itemid=1462) Applicants are free to select any of those according to their preference.
What is the basis for the GOTS/GRTS certification? The basis for GOTS/GRTS certification:
- Annual on-site inspection of premises of the processor, manufacturer or trader, performed by an independent and specially accredited certification body.
- Tracing the organic or responsible fibre product flow.
- Assessment of all the inputs and accessories used.
- Verification of the wastewater treatment system as part of the environmental management programme.
- Monitoring social criteria and implementing a risk assessment based quality and residue policy are key elements of the inspection protocol.
The certification of traders is mainly based on the verification of their product flow documentation. The inspection protocol includes a reconciliation of purchases and sales volumes of textiles (volume reconciliation calculation). It also allows to trace back to check whether all the purchased products with a claim to being GOTS or GRTS certified were correctly certified.
What are the main requirements for the production of GOTS/GRTS compliant products? - Comply with the GOTS/GRTS social criteria based on the key norms of the International Labour Organisation (ILO).
- Provide a written environmental policy. Depending on the processing stages performed, the policy should, for instance, include procedures to monitor and minimise waste and discharges and a programme for reducing these.
- Wet processing units must keep full and comprehensive records of the use of chemicals, energy, water consumption and wastewater treatment, including the disposal of sludge.
- Wastewater from all wet processing sites must be treated in either an internal or external functional wastewater treatment plant before being discharged to surface waters.
What is the cost of certification? The certification costs very much depend on (number of) location(s), size and type of the entity and the range of products that are intended to be processed or traded under the scope of certification. As a rough estimation, entities with one facility can expect an annual certification cost ranging between 1.200 and 3.000 Euro. [The Approved Certification Bodies](https://global-standards.org/certification-and-labelling/certification/approved-certification-bodies#sort=name&sortdir=asc) will be pleased to inform applicants about the data they need to provide in order to receive an individual estimate.
In addition to the certification cost payable to the certifier, each certified entity must pay a fee for each calendar year. The annual fee for GOTS is set at 180 Euro for each facility which is inspected for the certified entity. It will be collected by the approved certifier and transferred to GOTS.
The Entity Annual Fee for GRTS certification shall be 450 Euro and 50 Euro shall be payable by the CB as Certification Body Annual Fee for GRTS (500 Euro annually in total).
What can entities use their GOTS/GRTS certification for? Processors and manufacturers that receive a GOTS or GRTS Certificate of Compliance (=Scope Certificate) are authorised to accept orders for GOTS or GRTS compliant processing/manufacturing in their certified scope. Certified importers and exporters, as well as other traders, are authorised to trade in GOTS or GRTS textile products within the scope of their certification. Entities that receive a GOTS or GRTS Scope Certificate are free to advertise their certified status on the market. Certified companies may also be included in the [public certification database](https://global-standards.org/index.php?Itemid=1385).
Why do traders that do not modify or add anything to the product need to become certified? Although traders do not modify goods, they buy and sell certified products and represent a crucial link for safeguarding transparency and traceability in the value chain. The certification of traders is based on verifying their product flow documentation. The inspection protocol includes reconciliation on the purchase and sales volumes of textiles (mass balance calculation) and tracing back whether all the purchased products with GOTS/GRTS certification claim were, indeed, correctly certified. Without certification of trade entities, it would not be possible to account for independent and gapless verification of a traceable, as well as comprehensive certified product flow.
The certification requirement for traders also ensures that they are aware of the documentation required to verify the authenticity of GOTS/GRTS certified products and, thus, helps to ensure the integrity of GOTS/GRTS goods.
How can I verify someone's claim to be GOTS/GRTS certified? 1. Look for entries in the [certified suppliers database](https://global-standards.org/index.php?Itemid=1385), which contains all GOTS/GRTS certified entities as reported by GOTS/GRTS approved certifiers.
(While we strive to keep our database up to date, entries to the database cannot be used as a definitive verification. To receive appropriate proof of the certified status of a company e.g. as a potential supplier of GOTS/GRTS certified products check the copy of the Scope Certificate, available on the company’s database entry.)
2. Companies claiming to be GOTS/GRTS certified can also be requested to provide their GOTS or GRTS Scope Certificates. This certificate must have been issued by a [GOTS/GRTS Approved Certifier](https://global-standards.org/index.php?option=com_jamegafilter&view=default&id=2&jalayout=acb&itemperrow=6&itempercol=1&default_result_view=list&show_more=0&fullpage=1&sticky=1&scrolltop=1&autopage=0&direction=vertical&Itemid=1607 "leading to list GOTS Approved Certification Bodies") and has to show (among other information) the company's contact details, as well as the scope of its GOTS or GRTS certification.
3. In case of doubt of the authenticity of the certificate, one can – in the last instance – seek confirmation of this through the certificate number by the approved certifier who issued the certification.
Can GOTS-certified companies extend their certification scope to include GRTS? GOTS-certified entities wishing to produce GRTS goods will need to obtain a GRTS Scope Certificate in addition to their existing GOTS certification. To do so, they can contact their existing GOTS-approved Certification Body (CB) and request certification to GRTS.
The CB will assess the entity’s capability to produce GRTS goods, conduct the necessary due diligence, and, upon successful assessment, issue a GRTS Scope Certificate. Once the GRTS Scope Certificate has been issued, the entity may commence production of GRTS goods.
As GRTS builds on many of the same fundamental requirements and system elements as GOTS, an additional on-site audit may not always be necessary. However, the final determination remains at the discretion of the Certification Body.
Over time, dual certification is expected to create efficiencies for certified entities, including the possibility of combined audits for GOTS and GRTS, which may help reduce overall audit costs.
Is GOTS certification a prerequisite for GRTS? No. GRTS and GOTS are separate certifications and can be obtained singly. It will of course be very easy for GOTS certified companies to get GRTS certified because most of GRTS requirements are the same as GOTS.
Can companies work with the same Certification Body (CB) for both GOTS and GRTS? It is mandatory for companies to obtain both GOTS and GRTS certifications from the same GOTS-approved certification body.
Will existing GOTS-approved Certification Bodies (CBs) be automatically authorised for GRTS? Yes, existing GOTS-approved Certification Bodies will be authorised to issue GRTS Scope Certificates. However, GOTS-Certified Entities must submit a formal application in order to obtain GRTS certification. Certification Bodies will assess the company's capability to meet GRTS requirements, and only upon successful verification will a separate GRTS Scope Certificate be issued. Since many GOTS-certified companies already produce a broader range of products, GRTS provides an efficient path to expand certification without duplicating audits.
Are there proposed differences in audit frequency or inspection requirements for GRTS compared to GOTS? No, GRTS operates under the same system as GOTS. Annual audits are a requirement.
For an entity applying to get certified to GOTS and GRTS, could the audits be combined? Yes. Since GRTS builds directly on the criteria and procedures already used in GOTS, all audits can and should be conducted simultaneously. This allows for a streamlined and efficient certification process, without duplicating efforts or increasing audit burdens for Certified Entities.
How much additional administrative burden does GRTS create? For already certified entities, there is hardly any additional auditing burden, assuming certification for GOTS and GRTS is conducted simultaneously. Preparation efforts for compliance with environmental, social, and chemical requirements remain the same as for GOTS. There is no duplication of auditing. Some additional effort is required for the creation or update of scope certificates and for GRTS labelling.
## Product Certification
How can consumers identify a correctly GOTS/GRTS certified and labelled product? Consumers should look for the on-product labelling. GOTS/GRTS labelling must be applied on the product in such a way that it is visible to the consumer at the time of purchase (e.g. on the packaging and/or hangtag and/or a label).
Correct and complete GOTS/GRTS labelling shows the trademark-registered GOTS or GRTS logo (or the lettering ‘Global Organic Textile Standard’ or 'Global Responsible Textreference to the certification body and the certification number of the certified entity. As retailers are not obliged to be certified themselves, the labelling may show the certification number of their supplier (trader, manufacturer) of the final product. Consumers can look up the data set of the certified entity by entering the certification number (or name), provided on the GOTS or GRTS labelling in the ‘free text field’ of the [public database.](https://global-standards.org/index.php?Itemid=1385)
Only correct GOTS/GRTS labelling provides assurance to consumers that the final product is GOTS/GRTS certified.
It should be noted that products identified, advertised or offered for sale without this labelling, but with other references to GOTS/GRTS (certification), may not indicate GOTS/GRTS certification of the final product. The GOTS/GRTS labelling conditions do not permit use of the GOTS/GRTS label (or reference to GOTS/GRTS certification) on the garment/final textile product, if the GOTS/GRTS certification is merely valid for intermediate products/steps (such as yarn or fabric) only. It is a precondition for on-product label use that the whole value chain and the final product is certified. Claims on textile products, such as ‘this garment is made from GOTS/GRTS certified yarn or fabric’, are claims made by the seller and are not verified or verifiable through the GOTS/GRTS certification process.
In addition, it is not be permitted to combine GOTS and GRTS claims on a single product label or hangtag. GOTS and GRTS are separate certifications with distinct scopes.
Is GOTS/GRTS a tiered standard? The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and Global Responsible Textile Standard (GRTS) are not tiered standards. They do not have levels of compliance. All certified entities are required to meet all requirements of the respective Standard.
How can a commercial buyer ensure that products purchased are actually GOTS/GRTS certified? Companies permitted to market their textile products as GOTS/GRTS certified will have received a GOTS or GRTS Scope Certificate and can be requested to provide an (electronic) copy of their certification. This certificate will have been issued by a GOTS/GRTS approved certifier and states that the company is GOTS or GRTS certified. Hence, it is able to process/market the listed products (or product categories) under GOTS or GRTS certification. However, this does not prove that all of GOTS or GRTS certified entities‘ products are GOTS or GRTS certified. In case of doubt about the authenticity of the Scope Certificate, buyers can check it within Global Trace Base and in last instance, the certification status may be confirmed by contacting the issuing approved certifier.
In order to assure that a specific shipment of products received from a certified supplier is GOTS or GRTS certified, the supplier can be requested to provide a 'Transaction Certificate' (TC), issued by the GOTS or GRTS certifier of the supplier. The said file lists the specific products and shipment details, including the buyer's name, address and caters to confirm the GOTS or GRTS certification status. Commercial buyers may decide to make the issuance of TCs for each purchase of GOTS/GRTS certified textile products a contractual condition to each supplier they want to work with in this field. In case of doubt about the authenticity of a TC, the buyer can request that the entity’s certifier verifies its validity.
Must GOTS/GRTS certified products be certified at all stages of the supply chain? As a principle, all operators of the processing and manufacturing chain, as well as B2B traders, must be GOTS/GRTS certified as a prerequisite that a final product can be sold, labelled or represented as GOTS/GRTS certified.
What are the product requirements with regard to fibre composition for GOTS certification? A minimum of 70% of the fibre material used must be certified organic in order to achieve GOTS certification. The product may not contain any conventional fibres of the same organic raw material contained in the product (i.e., no blending), but may contain other fibres (natural or synthetic) not of organic origin. The GOTS label grade ‘made with organic’ requires a minimum of 70% certified organic fibres. The GOTS label grade ‘organic’ requires a minimum of 95% certified organic fibres.
What does "responsible" mean in the context of the Global Responsible Textile Standard (GRTS)? What types of fibres are covered under GRTS certification? In GRTS, “responsible” refers specifically to the fibres used in certified products.
GRTS does not create new fibre production standards. Instead, it recognises fibres certified to existing third-party standards that meet defined criteria for responsibility that align with those of GOTS.
Eligible fibre categories under GRTS include:
- natural plant and animal fibres
- regenerated cellulosic fibres
- recycled natural and synthetic fibres
- biopolymers
- certified organic and organic in-conversion fibres below GOTS thresholds
GRTS Goods must contain at least 90% recognised responsible fibres. A limited percentage of specified additional virgin synthetic fibres is permitted where essential for product functionality.
This approach enables both GRTS and GOTS to apply one rigorous environmental, social and traceability framework across a broad range of certified responsible and organic fibre types.
Are synthetic (oil-based) fibres permitted under GRTS, and if so, under what conditions? Virgin oil-based synthetic fibres are generally not permitted as primary fibre content. Certain synthetic and manmade fibres may be permitted under GRTS, but only under defined conditions.
GRTS prioritises recognised responsible fibres and requires that at least 90% of the fibres in a GRTS-certified product qualify as responsible fibres under the standard.
Limited use of specified additional synthetic fibres may be allowed where necessary for technical or functional product requirements.
Recycled synthetic fibres may qualify as recognised responsible fibres when certified to accepted standards and compliant with GRTS fibre eligibility requirements.
For synthetic and manmade fibres, GRTS applies additional environmental and manufacturing requirements. Certain fibre systems may only be accepted where they are produced using non-toxic and closed-loop manufacturing processes designed to minimise environmental impact and resource consumption.
Additional requirements may include:
- traceability and independent verification
- environmentally sound and resource-efficient production processes
- responsible sourcing of feedstocks where applicable
- social and environmental safeguards in fibre manufacturing
The GRTS Manual further specifies that:
- virgin polyester is not permitted as an additional fibre material
- recycled polyester may be permitted when sourced from recognised recycled fibre standards
- regenerated cellulosic and synthetic fibre systems must demonstrate responsible sourcing and manufacturing controls
All permitted fibre inputs remain subject to full traceability, Transaction Certificate verification and independent third-party certification throughout the supply chain.
Are blended fibres (e.g., organic cotton + recycled polyester) eligible for GRTS certification? Yes. GRTS allows blended products, provided the fibres used are recognised responsible fibres under the standard and all applicable GRTS requirements are met.
GRTS is designed as a multi-fibre processing and manufacturing standard and therefore supports products containing combinations of different eligible responsible fibre types, including natural fibres, regenerated cellulosic fibres, recycled fibres and biopolymers.
To qualify under GRTS:
- at least 90% of the fibres in the product must be recognised responsible fibres under the standard
- up to 10% specified additional fibres may be permitted where necessary for technical or functional product requirements
- products must contain less than 70% certified organic or organic in-conversion fibres
The <70% organic threshold ensures a clear distinction between GRTS and GOTS while maintaining the integrity and positioning of both standards.
All fibre inputs, product flows and processing stages remain subject to full traceability, Transaction Certificate verification and independent third-party certification throughout the supply chain.
How can fibre producers or innovators submit new fibres for inclusion in GRTS? Global Standards has established a formal process for the evaluation of additional fibre production standards and responsible fibre categories under GRTS.
Organisations seeking inclusion of new fibres or fibre production standards may submit an application together with supporting documentation demonstrating alignment with the GRTS fibre eligibility requirements.
As part of the process, standard setters are invited to complete a self-assessment demonstrating compliance with the defined criteria for responsible production, traceability and independent verification.
These criteria include:
- independent third-party certification
- identity-preserved chain of custody
- non-GMO requirements
- restrictions on Highly Hazardous Pesticides (HHPs)
- animal welfare safeguards where applicable
- environmental and social performance expectations relevant to the fibre category
Additional requirements may apply depending on the fibre type, such as responsible forestry requirements for regenerated cellulosic fibres or environmental performance expectations for manufactured fibres and biopolymers.
Fibre standards that meet the minimum criteria are included in the list of recognised standards under GRTS.
The process remains open to allow additional fibre standards and innovations to be evaluated over time, supporting the continued development of responsible textile materials within a consistent and credible certification framework.
What kind of products can become GOTS/GRTS certified? In principle, any organic or "responsible" textile product can be GOTS or GRTS certified, respectively. Only complete/finished products can be certified and labelled with one of the two GOTS labels ('organic' or 'made with organic') or the GRTS label. Textile fibre components of a consumer product, which is not normally classified as a textile fibre product (such as prams with textile fabrics, bassinets, car seats or furniture with textile fabric upholstery), may also be certified and labelled as a "Combined Product". It is not possible to certify and label a part or component of a product.
What are the main product requirements with regard to (wet) processing and manufacturing? All chemical inputs (such as dyes, auxiliaries and process chemicals) are assessed and must meet basic requirements on toxicity and biodegradability/eliminability. The use of toxic heavy metals, formaldehyde, aromatic solvents and genetically modified organisms (GMO) is banned. There are also restrictions on the use of accessories. Raw materials, intermediates, final textile products and accessories must meet stringent limits regarding unwanted residues. Packaging material must not contain PVC.
Why does GOTS prohibit the use of auxiliaries that contain genetically modified organisms (GMO) or their enzymes? The question of whether enzymes derived from GMOs should be accepted under GOTS was addressed and extensively discussed when preparing GOTS Version 4.0. Finally, GOTS decided that the use of genetically modified organisms - including their enzymes - is incompatible with the production of textiles certified as organic or 'made with organic'. While GOTS acknowledges that there are applications based on GM technologies that result in a reduction of energy, as well as water use and replace the chemicals used in some conventional textile processes, this is only one side of the coin.
Many organisations and individuals have severe concerns about the use of genetic engineering, given the problems that have already arisen, the environmental risks and uncertainty surrounding their continued use, as well as ethical reservations and concerns about business principles. 'GMO-free' remains a principle of any credible organic agricultural and food standard, as reflected by all organic regulations worldwide.
There is hardly any popular and worldwide applied textile standard besides GOTS addressing this issue. Many consumers have deep concerns about genetically modified organisms. GOTS acknowledges these concerns and thinks that they should be respected by offering certified organic textiles produced without the use of GM technology. Consumers should be given a choice to decide for themselves whether they wish to purchase a textile product made without using any GM derived inputs.
In this sense, GOTS encourages the enzyme industry to respect these concerns about a controversial and much-discussed technology and to continue to offer natural enzymes for use in the textile industry.
Why does GOTS/GRTS prohibit the use of auxiliaries that are based on functional nano-particles? Auxiliaries based on nano-particles of an extremely small size are one of several novel materials about which science does not yet have sufficient information about their long term effects. In the textile sector, auxiliaries based on nano silver particles are already applied in finishing (for their anti-microbial properties). Yet basic questions that have not yet been answered are: where do/can nano particles go to and what (long term) effects might they cause (on the human body and the environment)? Similarly, nano particles penetrate organs and tissues in the body that larger particles cannot reach, such as the brain, lungs, and testes. In the case of nano-silver and other finishing applications that are sprayed with pesticides and can have potentially devastating effects, we clearly need to act with caution. Accordingly, we have concluded that a general prohibition is scientifically justifiable within a standard such as GOTS/GRTS that is committed to promoting environmental sustainability and human health.
## Labelling and Logo Use
What prerequisites do retailers need to fulfil to be allowed to use the GOTS or GRTS logo or any reference to GOTS/GRTS certification on/with regard to certified final textiles? Before offering for sale and selling GOTS/GRTS certified and labelled final products to the end consumer, the retailer must ensure that:
- Its supplier holds a valid Scope Certificate, issued by an approved certifier and covering the goods sold:
- If the retailer also has B2B trade activity (e.g. sales to other retailers) and/or (re)packs or (re)labels the GOTS/GRTS goods, the retailer has to be certified. The same conditions for the certification of traders, as detailed below, apply.
- If the retailer does not have a B2B trade activity and does not (re)pack or (re)label the GOTS/GRTS goods, the retailer is exempt from the certification obligation.
- The product is properly labelled (GOTS or GRTS logo), said labelling contains a reference (name and/or reference number) to the manufacturer, as well as to its approved certifier and has been released by this approved certifier. The retailer is strongly advised to (contractually) request a “Transaction Certificate“ issued by the respective GOTS/GRTS approved certifier, from his supplier for each shipment, as proof that the goods are properly GOTS/GRTS certified.
What prerequisites do traders need to fulfil to be allowed to use the GOTS or GRTS logo or any reference to GOTS/GRTS certification on/with regard to certified (semi-) finished textiles? Before selling GOTS or GRTS certified and labelled (semi-)finished products within the textile supply chain, the trader must ensure that:
- The trader holds a valid Scope Certificate from an approved certifier. This requirement is valid for traders with a B2B trade activity (e.g. for importers, exporters and wholesalers). Only traders, who have an annual turnover of less than 20.000€ in GOTS/GRTS goods and who do not (re)pack or (re)label them are exempt from the certification obligation. However, they must register with an approved certifier and must inform them immediately if their annual turnover from GOTS/GRTS goods exceeds 20.000€.
- The intended use of the GOTS or GRTS logo or other reference has been permitted by the approved certifier.
- Full records are maintained for each client that receives GOTS/GRTS goods, including lists of all products, their specifications and quantities.
What prerequisites do processors and manufacturers need to fulfil to be allowed to use the GOTS or GRTS logo or any reference to GOTS/GRTS certification on certified intermediate textiles? Before selling GOTS/GRTS certified and labelled (intermediate) textiles within the supply chain, processors and manufacturers must ensure that:
- They hold a valid Scope Certificate from an approved certifier covering such goods.
- The intended use of the GOTS or GRTS logo, or other reference to GOTS/GRTS certification, has been permitted by the approved certifier.
- Maintain full records of each client that receives GOTS/GRTS goods, including lists of all products, their specifications, and quantities.
How can brand holders and retailers that are not obliged to participate in the certification system apply the GOTS or GRTS logo on their textiles? Brand holders or retailers that are not obliged to participate in the GOTS/GRTS certification system can ask their certified supplier to apply the GOTS or GRTS logo in a prescibed manner (art work) provided all GOTS/GRTS labelling requirements, as stipulated in the Labelling Guide, are met. In this case the labelling would be under the supervision of the supplier’s GOTS or GRTS approved certifier and the supplier's reference (e.g. license number) would appear on the labelling. Alternatively, brand holders or retailers that are not obliged to participate in the GOTS/GRTS certification system may apply for certification on a voluntary basis. In this case, they can apply the logo on their own under supervision of their GOTS/GRTS certifier. Thus, their own reference (e.g. licence number) will appear on the labelling. Under all circumstances, only a GOTS/GRTS certified entity may apply GOTS/GRTS labelling to a product.
What do promotional traders have to consider when selling and/or printing on GOTS/GRTS certified products? If GOTS/GRTS certified final products are processed by adding prints, embroidery etc., the trader must be certified in order to be allowed to use GOTS/GRTS labelling and/or any references to GOTS/GRTS certification, otherwise the certified value chain would be interrupted. It is irrelevant whether the products are sold B2C or B2B or if some of the certified products are sold without any prints or embroidery. The GOTS/GRTS organisation takes legal action against non-certified companies that, for example, print on certified textiles and sell the products as GOTS/GRTS certified.
What is the cost for the use of the GOTS or GRTS logo? In addition to the certification cost payable to the certifier, each certified entity must pay a fee for each calendar year. The annual fee for GOTS is set at 180 Euro for each facility which is inspected for the certified entity. It will be collected by the approved certifier and transferred to GOTS.
The Entity Annual Fee for GRTS certification shall be 450 Euro and 50 Euro shall be payable by the CB as Certification Body Annual Fee for GRTS (500 Euro annually in total).
The fee for both certifications is collected by the approved certifier and, then, transferred to Global Standards gGmbH. This fee also covers the right to use the GOTS or GRTS logo on certified textile products in conjunction with the licencing and application criteria, as detailed in the Licensing and Labelling Guide. For the time being, there is no extra (turnover based) fee. Traders, brand holders and/or retailers or traders that are exempt from the GOTS/GRTS certification requirement do not need to pay a licence fee.
Can the GOTS or GRTS logo be used for the purpose of writing an article? Stakeholders, NGOs, media and other parties that distribute independent (consumer or industry) information can use the GOTS or GRTS logo in conjunction with accurate statements about GOTS/GRTS and its quality assurance system. They can obtain a high resolution logo by sending a request indicating the purpose of the logo use by email to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..
## Sanctions and Suspensions
Why does Global Standards need to sanction Certification Bodies? The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is considered a gold standard for the processing of organic textiles. It has earned a reputation of being fair and dependable throughout the value chain. The new Global Responsible Textile Standard (GRTS) builds off of this reputation, applying GOTS' worldwide accepted criteria to a wider range of responsible fibres.
Consumers, retailers, brands and operators all depend on the certification system to have the highest integrity. There are situations where the integrity may be compromised, and that is when, as the operating unit of GOTS and GRTS, Global Standard gGmbH has the responsibility of protecting the sanctity of the Standards and their certification system. Sanctions are one option in such cases.
Global Standards does not impose Certification Body (CB) sanctions directly in most cases. Instead, these are imposed by the respective Accreditation Bodies (ABs).
In exceptional circumstances, Global Standards may take direct action against CBs. One such action is the suspension of CB activities. The primary objective of suspending a CB is to retain the integrity of the Standards system and the goods certified under it. This remains Global Standards' primary aim so that all organisations that use and rely on GOTS/GRTS can continue to do so.
A suspension is not a withdrawal, but rather an opportunity for the CB to demonstrate positive intent to address any issues within their systems.
Are suspensions conditional and are they temporary? All suspensions are conditional. The conditions of a suspension are shared with the concerned organisation.
Suspensions are also time-bound and can be withdrawn, subject to demonstration of improvement of performance. Should the sanctioned organisation not show adequate improvement, as determined by their supervisory bodies (Accreditation Bodies supervise Certification Bodies, and Certification Bodies supervise Certified Entities), their approval could be withdrawn.
What are the effects of sanctions on the value chain? Sanctions have a direct effect on the value chain and Supply Chain Operators (SCOs), and SCOs should prepare for increased scrutiny and compliance checks during this period of suspension.
One of the most common sanctions is the suspension of privileges related to the issuance of Transaction Certificates (TCs). Delays in issuing TCs may affect the value chain, but it is important to know that GOTS/GRTS permits the issuance of TCs up to six months from the date of shipment. Should it be necessary, Global Standards will provide concessions to this policy requirement in order to assist SCOs.
The GOTS/GRTS Policy for Issuance of Transaction Certificates also requires TCs to be issued within 14 days of applications by SCOs. In the case of a suspension, CB’s cannot issue TCs until the suspension has been lifted by Global Standards,
While any inconvenience caused to the value chain is regrettable, what remains crucial is for Global Standards to ensure that confidence in GOTS/GRTS is not damaged.
How will sanctions affect the sale of GOTS/GRTS goods with labelling? The suspension of a CB does not impact ready GOTS/GRTS Goods that have been labelled properly. GOTS/GRTS Goods with correct and complete labelling may be sold in B2B and B2C markets.
In cases where the value chain is impacted, buyers should cooperate and coordinate with their respective suppliers to ensure all requirements are fulfilled. Buyers’ due diligence regarding the purchase and receipt of GOTS/GRTS Goods shall not be waived.
Can Supply Chain Operators migrate to another Certification Body if their current Certification Body is sanctioned? Although a suspension is temporary and includes a deadline for the CB to rectify the situation, Supply Chain Operators may decide to migrate to another GOTS/GRTS-approved Certification Body to ensure continuity in certification services based on their risk assessment. In these cases, Global Standards has a policy in place that can be downloaded here: [Policy for Change or Migration of Certifier](https://global-standards.org/images/resource-library/documents/certificate-policies-and-templates/Policy_for_Change_of_Certifiers_v_1.1_Nov-2020.pdf).
A CE wishing to move to another CB should also note that this can take some time, and all issues should be discussed with their newly chosen CB.
If I already paid my GOTS/GRTS annual fee for the year, do I have to pay again if I change to a new Certification Body in the same calendar year? No. GOTS/GRTS annual fees are only paid by a CE once in a calendar year, so a CE does not need to pay the annual fee again if it chooses to migrate to another CB.
What should our supply chain do with upcoming shipments (not yet shipped) when their Certification Body has been suspended from issuing Transaction Certificates? Should they stop/postpone them? While Global Standards does not typically provide commentary on business matters, we believe that operations should continue as usual. However, both buyers and sellers should be aware that TCs may experience delays as a result of this suspension. Each Supply Chain Operator should take decisions based on their own risk assessment.
What happens to the orders that are currently in transit (e.g., on cargo ships)? Will our suppliers need a “grace period” for these Transaction Certificates? It is important to note that suspensions are conditional and the terms of suspension need to be looked at before any general answer can be given to such a question.
However, since Transaction Certificate applications in the GOTS/GRTS system can be made by sellers to their CBs until six months of shipments, we would typically not anticipate issues arising in this regard - because suspensions are not expected to continue for such a timeline.
Nevertheless, should it be found necessary, GOTS/GRTS will make concessions in the six-month rule so that TCs may be issued after the CB is reinstated.
What will happen to our Scope Certificate issued by suspended Certification Bodies? Scope Certificates (SCs) issued by the Certification Body remain valid until the date stated on the SC.
The companies that have a valid SC are visible in Global Trace Base.
What happens if the Scope Certificate expires while the suspension is in effect? Can the suspended Certification Body extend the validity of existing certification? Renewals of existing Scope Certificates may be permitted, depending on the conditions of CB suspension. Supply Chain Operators should therefore be aware of the restrictions placed on CBs during the suspension and take decisions based on these.
Are Transaction Certificates that were issued by a suspended Certification Body still valid up to the suspension date? Yes, the Transaction Certificates that were issued up until the date the suspension went into effect (suspension date) remain valid unless they have been specifically withdrawn by the suspended Certification Body.
Why can Global Standards not independently issue the pending Transaction Certificates (TCs) since all are GOTS/GRTS TCs? The three pillars of the certification system operate with clear separation of responsibilities among its actors:
1. Rules: Standard setters develop rules through multi-stakeholder approaches.
2. Independent, third-party Certification Bodies (CB) audit and certify companies and issue Scope Certificates and TCs.
3. Independent Accreditation Bodies supervise the operations of CBs, providing an independent review that is ingrained within the GOTS/GRTS system.
Global Standards, as a standard setter, cannot issue TCs; that responsibility remains the exclusive domain of the CBs.
Can my new Certification Body (CB) directly accept previous Transaction Certificate applications from the suspended CB that were submitted before the suspension date? You will have to reapply for Transaction Certificates (TCs) with your new CB following their procedures. TCs will be issued by the new CB following their own procedures and based on their risk assessment and due diligence.
Who will issue Transaction Certificates for the period between the suspension and the time at which a Certified Entity is transferred to a new Certification Body? Should the Certified Entity choose to move to a new Certification Body (CB), the new CB will issue all the Transaction Certificates, based on its risk assessment and due diligence.
I applied for my Transaction Certificates from the suspended Certification Body before the suspension date. What happens to those requests? Should you continue with the suspended Certification Body (CB) as your CB, your requests will be taken up once the suspension is lifted. If you decide to migrate to another CB, you will have to reapply for Transaction Certificates (TCs) with your newly chosen CB. The new CB is permitted to issue TCs for the mentioned period based on their risk assessment and due diligence.
Does Global Standards impose certification bans on Certified Entities? In cases where gross violations of the GOTS/GRTS rules or procedures or of the use of GOTS/GRTS Signs are found, or where there is a serious breach of Global Standards' principles, the Global Standards management may decide, on its own findings or based on a recommendation by a CB, to impose a ban on certification for a CE.
Such a certification ban may be instituted for a period of 24 months or less.
The GOTS/GRTS [Complaints Handling Procedure](https://global-standards.org/index.php?Itemid=1464) provides details of sanctions against CEs and CBs. Certification bans are listed prominently on the GOTS/GRTS website [here.](https://global-standards.org/index.php?Itemid=1465)
## Miscellaneous
Is it possible to use 'bamboo' in GOTS certified textiles? Typically, the bamboo fibre used in industrial textile production is not natural bamboo (bast or fibre separated from the stem), but where cellulose from the bamboo plant has been regenerated through a viscose/rayon process and can, therefore, not be considered as a natural or even organic fibre, even if the bamboo plant was originally certified as organic, in the field.
As a consequence, regenerated bamboo fibres can only be used as an allowed additional fibre upto 10% in GOTS certified textiles, so long as the bamboo is non-GMO.
These rules also apply to all regenerated fibres derived from any raw material source (e.g. wood, cotton lints, soybean, milk).
Users of bamboo (and other regenerated) fibres should also be aware of the legal labelling requirements in their sales markets. In the US, the FTC (Federal Trade Commission) has clarified that, if bamboo is produced through a rayon process, these fibres must be labelled as rayon and not as bamboo (see FTC article "[How to avoid bamboozling your customers](https://www.ftc.gov/tips-advice/business-center/guidance/how-avoid-bamboozling-your-customers "leading to Federal Trade Commission article how to avoid bamboozling your customers")"). Equivalent labelling requirements also apply in the European Union.
**It is important to note here that bast bamboo fibre is practically never used in consumer products especially for apparel / close to skin textiles.**
What is the difference between GOTS and OCS (Organic Content Standard of Textile Exchange) and of the related certification systems? GOTS is a comprehensive standard that makes a ‘full product claim’ that sets detailed environmental and social criteria throughout the entire textile supply chain.
In contrast, OCS (Organic Content Standard; previously OE 100 and Blended Standards - issued by Textile Exchange) traces the organic fibre flow throughout the entire textile supply chain, allowing an organic ‘fibre claim’ in the final textile product, but without any requirement to meet environmental or social criteria in processing.
Brands and retailers may use OCS as a stepping stone to GOTS (e.g. a certification to cover tracking and handling while supply chains organise themselves to comply with GOTS).
Many companies in the supply chain choose to be certified to both standards - GOTS and OCS -, in order to better meet the needs of their customers. There may be cases in which a specific product cannot meet all demanding processing requirements of GOTS (eg: because not all dyestuffs and auxiliaries used comply with GOTS processing criteria or the minimum percentage of 70% organic fibres is not met). In that case, the product could still be certified to OCS, which allows verification and labelling for the organic fibre content. GOTS and OCS may, therefore, be seen as complementary rather than competing certification systems.
What is Shorn Wool? In GOTS, pesticide residue limits are listed specifically for “shorn wool.”
It has come to our attention that there have been divergent interpretations and translations from the official English version, since the term “shorn wool” is not explicitly defined in the Standard. The German term “Schurwolle” is an accurate translation.
“Shorn wool” in GOTS refers to virgin wool (new, non-recycled wool that has been sheared from living animals) as an input for spinning, thus the expectation is that it has been scoured/washed.
See:
[**GOTS v7.0 (5.2.7.2)**](https://global-standards.org/images/resource-library/documents/standard-and-manual/GOTS_7.0_ENG_signed.pdf#%5B%7B%22num%22%3A79%2C%22gen%22%3A0%7D%2C%7B%22name%22%3A%22XYZ%22%7D%2C79%2C205%2C0%5D)
[**GOTS v7.0 (5.2.8.1)**](https://global-standards.org/images/resource-library/documents/standard-and-manual/GOTS_7.0_ENG_signed.pdf#%5B%7B%22num%22%3A87%2C%22gen%22%3A0%7D%2C%7B%22name%22%3A%22XYZ%22%7D%2C79%2C558%2C0%5D)