GOTS - How the programme works

As a processing standard, certification according to GOTS begins with the first processing stage of textile fibres. For example, for cotton, ginning is the first processing stage, at which seeds are removed from cotton bolls. Other examples are retting for bast fibres (like flax, hemp, jute, kenaf, ramie, etc.). Among animal fibres, boiling and washing cocoons for silk is the first step that is covered under GOTS and for wool, scouring is the first step. If grading of wool is not covered by the organic farming certification, grading would be the first processing step in a GOTS certified entity.

Elements of Inspection

During an on-site inspection, a facility at the first processing stage should show evidence that organic and conventional fibres are never commingled to avoid contamination. This can be ensured via different storage locations, clear markings, proper storage and handling, etc. Training and awareness of workers is of paramount importance here, since raw organic and conventional fibres look the same.

Raw fibres purchased must be certified to an organic production standard that is approved in the IFOAM Family of Standards for the relevant scope of production (crop or animal production). The qualitative GMO Screening of organic cotton is required as per ISO IWA 32. Prohibited are raw fibres that originate from production projects with a persistent pattern of gross violations of the International Labour Organization (ILO) core labour norms and/or of animal welfare principles (including Mulesing) and/or land grabbing.

Receiving and validating Scope Certificates and Transaction Certificates for incoming raw fibres is of utmost importance to verify the organic status of raw materials purchased. In a GOTS certified entity, consideration of wastage, volume reconciliation and appropriate transportation documentation are some other steps that need to be documented.

For the processed organic material sold by GOTS certified entities the Transaction Certificates shall include information about quality parameters like micronaire and fibre length.

Some parameters are equally applicable to all processing stages under GOTS certification, like:

• Social Criteria
• Ethical Business Behaviour
• Environmental Management

Spinning is the processing stage at which fibres are converted into yarns, usually with the help of twisting and drawing. Worsted spinning and cotton spinning employ different kinds of machinery in yarn preparation; furthermore, there is ring spinning and open-end spinning. Sometimes, synthetic fibres are blended with natural fibres at the spinning stage, as well. A textile product carrying the GOTS label must contain a minimum of 70% certified organic fibres, a product with the label grade grade 'organic' must contain a minimum of 95% certified organic fibres. Comber noil may become a raw material for spinning of open-end yarns in some cases.

Elements of Inspection

Since undyed organic and conventional yarns look the same, separation and identification of organic bales, tops, sliver, yarns, etc. is of utmost importance in storage and on the shopfloor. Colour coding of cans and bobbins can help, besides separate storage facilities. Training and awareness of workers is of essential importance here again.

Spinners must purchase GOTS certified raw materials and maintain records of quantities purchased. Once more, consideration of wastage, volume reconciliation, and appropriate transportation documentation are some other steps that should be undertaken.

Any paraffin products used must be fully refined with a limited value for residual oil of 0.5%. Machine oils coming in touch with organic yarns must be heavy metal-free. Synthetic fibres, which are to be dissolved at a later processing stage, are not allowed to be used.

For the processed organic yarns sold by GOTS certified entities, the Transaction Certificates shall include information about quality parameters like micronaire and fibre length.

Some parameters are equally applicable to all processing stages under GOTS certification, like:

• Social Criteria
• Ethical Business Behaviour
• Environmental Management

Weaving or knitting is the stage at which yarn is converted into fabric. Undyed or dyed yarns may be used to make fabrics. Non-woven fabric manufacturing techniques eliminate spinning and directly convert fibres into fabric.

Sometimes, different kinds of yarns are used in warp and weft for blending, strength, patterning, etc. Weaving is usually preceded by warping and sizing for strengthening the yarn.

Elements of Inspection

Natural sizing agents should be used. Limited usage of synthetic sizing agents is permitted as well. Machine oils coming in touch with organic yarns must be heavy metal-free.

Separation and identification of organic yarns, warp beams, fabric rolls, etc. must be ensured in storage and on the shopfloor. Training and awareness of workers is crucial here, again.

Fabric processors must purchase GOTS certified yarns and maintain records of quantities purchased. Wastage, volume reconciliation and transportation documentation shall be verified during an onsite audit.

Some parameters are equally applicable to all processing stages under GOTS certification, like:

• Social Criteria
• Ethical Business Behaviour
• Environmental Management

Wet-Processing is the processing stage at which textile substrate is treated with colourants and/or chemicals, collectively referred to as inputs in GOTS terminology. This includes sizing, desizing, pre-treatment, dyeing, printing (including digital printing), finishing, laundry, etc. Non-woven manufacturing, using hydro entanglement, is also a wet-processing step.

Sizing includes applying natural or chemical inputs on yarns to strengthen them, so that they can withstand the strain during the warping and weaving process. Post weaving, desizing is the process of removing sizing chemicals from the woven fabrics. This is followed by pre-treatment operations like bleaching, boiling, kiering, washing, mercerisation, optical brightening, etc. The objective is to increase absorbance and whiteness, while making the substrate (usually a fabric or yarn) ready for dyeing/printing.

Dyeing and printing operations are the process of imparting colour to the substrate using dyes, inks, pigments, etc. Some auxiliaries are also used to enhance exhaustion or uniform uptake of colour, etc.

Finishing is usually the final step in wet-processing operations. It is used to improve the look, performance, or softness of the finished textile. Sometimes, stitched garments undergo washing in laundries post manufacturing. This is also covered under the finishing section in GOTS.

Elements of Inspection

As other processes explained above, separation and identification of organic yarns, fabrics, garments, etc. is still important. Once more, training and awareness of workers is crucial.

Buying GOTS certified raw materials, maintaining records of quantities, consideration of wastage, volume reconciliation, appropriate transportation documentation, etc. are important yet again.

Due to use of water and chemicals, this section has the highest level of associated risks and, therefore, very stringent criteria are applicable here. Chemical inputs used for wet-processing of GOTS Goods must be approved prior to their use. To know more about how to get chemical inputs approved, click here.

For sizing, at least 75% of sizing agents should be of natural origin. For pre-treatment, ammonia treatment, as well as chlorination of wool are prohibited. Only oxygen-based bleaches like peroxide, ozone, etc. are allowed.

For dyeing and printing, there are additional curbs on allergenic dyes, carcinogenic and suspected carcinogenic colourants, as well as dyes containing heavy metal. To avoid exploitation of natural resources, the use of natural dyes and auxiliaries that are derived from a threatened species listed on the Red List of the IUCN is also prohibited.

For printing, there are limits for inputs containing permanent Adsorbable Organic Halides (AOX). Additionally, printing methods using aromatic solvents, phthalates or chlorinated plastics (e.g. PVC) are prohibited.

For finishing, the use of synthetic inputs is forbidden for certain treatments. These include anti-microbial, coating, filling, stiffening, lustring, matting and weighting. At the same time, finishing methods like sand blasting, which are considered harmful to workers, are prohibited.

Wastewater Treatment by Wet Processing Units
Wastewater from all wet-processing units is treated in an internal or external functional Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP). Since laws vary around the world, the most stringent legal requirement – whether local laws or GOTS criteria – is applicable. The criteria include pH, temperature, total organic content, biological oxygen demand, chemical oxygen demand, colour removal, etc. The extent of treatment required for the wastewater and sludge depends upon types of inputs being used and is evaluated by the Approved Certifiers.

Some parameters are equally applicable to all processing stages under GOTS certification, like:

• Social Criteria
• Ethical Business Behaviour
• Environmental Management

In terms of GOTS terminology, manufacturing refers to the final step of production of GOTS Goods. It is also known as the cutting, making, trimming (CMT) industry. Labelling and final packaging of GOTS Goods are also covered at this step. This includes different kinds of products like garments, home-textiles, carpets, hygiene products, combined products, etc. The manufacturing operation may include elements like assembling, fabric marking, stitching, ironing, sorting, balling, filling/stuffing, etc.

Elements of Inspection

Manufacturing processes use a variety of accessories for functionality and/or fashion requirements. They must meet stringent criteria for residue of hazardous substances, following the following Restricted Substances List (RSL). To learn more about how to get accessories approved, see page How to Get Additives Approved. Alternatively, accessories certified to Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex are acceptable.

Machine oils coming in touch with organic textiles must be heavy metal-free. Separation and identification of organic products is essential. Buying GOTS certified raw materials, maintaining records of quantities, consideration of wastage, volume reconciliation, transportation documentation, etc. are necessary.

The Certified Weight shall be the weight of GOTS certified raw materials used in the final product, after reducing wastage. Clear computation of weight of accessories and additional fibres must be available for the purpose of volume reconciliation and Transaction Certificates.

For on-product labelling, it is possible to use the licence number of the manufacturer or of the buyer. In all cases, the certified entity applying the GOTS Label shall have the labelling approved by their certification body (Labelling Release for GOTS Goods).

Some parameters are equally applicable to all processing stages under GOTS certification, like:

• Social Criteria
• Ethical Business Behaviour
• Environmental Management

Business to Business (B2B) operators who buy and sell GOTS Goods, but do not alter the product or labelling in any manner are considered traders. B2B trade is prevalent in the textile industry for products within the supply chain (for yarns, fabrics, etc.), as well as for final packed products ready to be sold to end consumers.

Agents and buying offices that are only ‘facilitating’ the sale of goods are not considered traders. Businesses that are exclusively selling to the end consumer are known as retailers.

Elements of Inspection

Traders having a turnover of more than 20.000 Euro per year from GOTS Goods must become certified. Legal ownership of the goods is considered the decisive factor regardless of whether the goods are physically received or not.

Traders that are not obliged to become certified, because their annual turnover with GOTS Goods is less than 20.000 Euro, must register with an Approved Certifier. In this context, the certified status of their supplier and the correct labelling of the GOTS Goods (with licence number and certifier's reference of the supplier) should be verified. As soon as their turnover exceeds 20.000 Euro, they shall inform the Approved Certifier and are under obligation of certification.

Retailers do not need to become certified but may voluntarily choose to become certified. They shall get their own licence number, which can be used uniformly for all product groups, irrespective of the supplier’s licence number. Besides, they will be visible to their customers on the Certified Suppliers Database. Furthermore, some relaxations are available for retail groups for Transaction Certificates.

Volume reconciliation and Transaction Certificates remain the most important verification step in terms of inspection. It is important to note that even though the number of pieces take centre stage at the trading / retail steps, Transaction Certificate (TCs) still use the weight of the product as the primary indicator for volume reconciliation. Information about the quantity of pieces and the product description is included in the TCs.

Some parameters applicable to all processing stages under GOTS certification are equally applicable to trading, like:

• Social Criteria
• Ethical Business Behaviour
• Environmental Management

Companies can become GOTS-certified by applying through an approved independent Certification Body. Certification includes a review of processes, inputs, documentation and on-site operations to verify compliance with the GOTS criteria across the processing, manufacturing or trading activities.

GOTS certification can only be carried out by approved independent Certification Bodies. These Certification Bodies conduct audits and certification activities according to the GOTS system requirements. A list of approved Certification Bodies is available here.

The certification process typically includes:

• Selecting an approved Certification Body
• Submitting an application and company information
• Reviewing materials, chemical inputs and processes
• Completing an on-site audit
• Addressing any non-conformities if required
• Receiving certification upon successful compliance verification

Global Standards Representatives can provide initial guidance and orientation on the GOTS and GRTS certification process.

Companies seeking more in-depth implementation support may also work with approved external consultants specialising in GOTS and GRTS certification and supply chain compliance. Contact information and regional support details are available here.